We were watching a surfing documentary just now….and, talking to Jenny about it, I realized that on our recent beach trip, a two foot wave was more than I could handle.
I wasn’t even surfing.
I was just trying to survive getting out of the water.
There is a lot of power in the ocean.
So…the reality of the inner boast “Hey! Look at that!! I could do that….surf those big waves!! I could do that if I learned to…do that!!” is really more like “good grief….I got slammed by two foot waves.”
Surfing is still one of the coolest things that a human being can do on this planet.
Ride those big waves?
Good grief….how cool would that be?